Let’s be honest: The thought of drilling holes into the exterior of your house is terrifying. Whether you are a homeowner in Suburban Chicago staring at vinyl siding, or a pub owner in Manchester looking at century-old brickwork, the fear is the same. You are worried about cracking the masonry, hitting a water pipe, or worse—watching your brand-new 65-inch 4K TV crash onto the patio pavers.
I have supervised thousands of installations across three continents. I am here to tell you: It is easier than assembling flat-pack IKEA furniture.
The reason you are anxious is that you are imagining mounting a heavy, dedicated outdoor TV. Those units can weigh 80 to 100 lbs (36-45 kg) and require two or three people to lift. The Outvion Enclosure System is different. We engineered it to be modular. You mount the lightweight, empty steel-and-polycarbonate shell first (which weighs about 15-20 lbs / 7-9 kg). Once that is secure, you simply hook your standard indoor TV inside. It transforms a heavy-lifting nightmare into a manageable one-person job (though a buddy always helps for holding the ladder).
The Quick “Foreman’s Breakdown”:
- Time Required: 45 to 60 minutes.
- Difficulty: 4/10 (If you can hang a heavy mirror, you can do this).
- Tools Needed:
- Power Drill (Hammer function required for Brick/Concrete).
- Bubble Level (24 inch / 60cm or longer is best).
- Socket Wrench Set (usually 1/2 inch or 13mm).
- Stud Finder (for wood walls).
- Pencil or Marker.
- What’s in the Box: Outvion provides the VESA internal mount, the backplane, the front cover, and a universal hardware pack for standard installations.
Last Updated: Dec 30th. 2025 | Estimated Reading Time: 10 Minutes
Location Strategy: How to Watch TV Outside in the Sun
Before you pick up a drill, you must pick the spot. This is where 50% of DIYers fail. They mount the TV where it looks good aesthetically, without considering where the sun lives.
The Physics of Glare (Nits vs. The Sun)
A standard high-quality indoor TV pumps out about 500 to 1,000 “nits” of brightness. The sun, however, emits about 1.6 billion nits. In a direct head-to-head fight, the sun always wins. If you point your TV directly at the sun, the screen will look washed out, and the internal temperature of the unit will skyrocket.
The “Shadow Rule” (Orientation)
Ideally, you want your screen facing away from the sun’s arc.
- Northern Hemisphere (US, UK, EU): The sun is always in the Southern sky. Therefore, face your TV North. This puts the sun behind the TV.
- Southern Hemisphere (Australia, South Africa): The sun is in the Northern sky. Face your TV South.
If you cannot achieve perfect orientation, do not panic. We have engineering solutions for that.
Glare Solution Level 1: Tilt & Angle (The Geometry Fix)
Reflection is geometry. Light hits a surface and bounces off at an equal angle. If your TV is mounted flat at eye level, it reflects the bright sky or the setting sun directly into your eyes.
- The Fix: The internal mount included with every Outvion enclosure features a 15-degree tilt mechanism. By angling the screen down just 5 to 10 degrees, you change the angle of incidence. Instead of reflecting the bright sky, the screen reflects the darker ground or grass. This simple adjustment can eliminate 80% of perceived glare without costing a penny.
Glare Solution Level 2: The Anti-Glare Custom Option (The Upgrade)
I value transparency over sales. If you are mounting this TV next to a swimming pool with zero shade cover, a standard glass or polycarbonate front panel will have reflections. It acts like a mirror.
- The Upgrade: For these extreme environments, Outvion offers a Matte Anti-Glare Custom Version. This involves an upgraded front panel chemically etched or coated to diffuse light. Instead of a hard reflection (mirror image), the light is “scattered” across the surface.
- The Trade-off: Matte screens slightly soften the sharpness of the image.
- Foreman’s Honest Advice: If you have a covered patio or pergola, the standard version is perfect—you don’t need the upgrade. If you are fully exposed to the open sky, contact our support team to order the Anti-Glare customized front panel (usually ~$100 USD / £80 GBP extra).
Glare Reduction Strategy Matrix
| Environment | Primary Light Source | Recommended Strategy |
|---|---|---|
| Covered Patio / Pergola | Ambient bounce light | Standard Panel + 5° Downward Tilt |
| North-Facing Wall (Open) | Indirect Sky Light | Standard Panel + 10° Downward Tilt |
| Poolside / Open Garden | Direct Sun / Water Reflection | Anti-Glare Matte Upgrade + Max Tilt |
| West-Facing (Sunset) | Direct Low Angle Sun | Anti-Glare Upgrade + Shade Structure (Umbrella) |
The “Where” Matters: Brick, Wood, or Siding?
The Foreman’s Cheat Sheet:
- Wood Studs: Use a Stud Finder + 3/16″ (5mm) Pilot Hole + Lag Bolts.
- Solid Brick/Concrete: Use a Hammer Drill + Masonry Bit + Sleeve Anchors (Rawlbolts).
- Vinyl Siding: Do NOT mount to siding. Use spacers to reach the stud behind.
Your wall dictates your war plan. The installation process might look the same on Instagram—hold box, drill hole, tighten screw—but the anchoring physics differ drastically depending on whether you are in a stick-built home in California or a solid masonry terrace in London. Understanding the material science of your wall is the difference between a rock-solid install and a catastrophe.
Scenario A: Wood Siding / Studs (North America / Australia)
Most homes in the US, Canada, and modern Australian builds use timber framing. The exterior is just a “skin” (siding, cladding, stucco) over a structural skeleton of 2×4 (50mm x 100mm) wooden beams, typically spaced 16 inches (40cm) apart.
1. Finding the “True Center” (Not just the Beep) A cheap stud finder will beep when it detects density. But here is the trap: it might beep at the edge of the stud. If you drill into the edge of a 2×4, your lag bolt will slice through the side of the wood, providing zero grip strength.
- The Pro Method: Move the stud finder from Left to Right until it beeps. Mark that spot. Then move it from Right to Left until it beeps. Mark that spot. The “True Center” is exactly in the middle of those two marks.
- The “Knock Test”: If you don’t have batteries, use your knuckles. Tap the wall. A hollow “drum” sound means you are between studs. A solid, dull “thud” means you are over timber. Combine this with looking for vertical rows of nail heads in your siding—builders always nail into studs.
2. The Physics of Pilot Holes (Why Screws Snap) I cannot stress this enough: You must drill a pilot hole. Novices often try to drive a thick 5/16″ (8mm) lag bolt directly into wood using an impact driver.
- What happens: As the thick bolt enters, it displaces the wood fibers. Since wood is dense, it creates massive friction. This friction generates heat. I have seen the steel head of a lag bolt get so hot it snaps right off, leaving the threaded shaft stuck in your wall.
- The Fix: Use a 3/16 inch (5mm) drill bit. This removes the core material, allowing the lag bolt’s threads to “bite” into the surrounding fibers without generating excess compression heat or splitting the timber.
Scenario B: Brick, Concrete, or Stone (UK / Europe / Asia)
For my friends in the UK, Germany, or older US cities, you are likely drilling into solid masonry. This is a different beast entirely. Wood compresses; brick shatters.
1. The Tool Science: Why Your Regular Drill Will Fail If you try to drill into red brick or concrete with a standard rotary drill, you will burn out the motor in 60 seconds.
- The Mechanics: A standard drill relies on sharp metal shaving off material (cutting). But masonry is ceramic—it is harder than steel. You cannot “cut” it; you must “pulverize” it.
- The Hammer Drill: You need a drill with a “Hammer” setting. This tool utilizes an internal cam-action mechanism that punches the drill bit forward and backward thousands of times per minute while it spins. It literally chisels the brick into dust.
- The Sensation: When you engage the hammer setting, it will be loud. It will feel like a jackhammer in your hand. You will see red or gray dust stream out. Foreman’s Warning: Wear a mask. Silica dust is hazardous to your lungs.
2. The “Crumble Risk”: Brick vs. Mortar Look at your wall. You see the hard bricks and the gray cement (mortar) lines between them.
- The Mistake: DIYers love drilling into the mortar because it is soft and easy. DO NOT DO THIS.
- The Failure Mode: Mortar is a mixture of sand and lime. It is designed to hold bricks apart, not to hold anchors in tension. Over time, the vibration from the TV or wind will turn that sandy mortar into powder. The anchor will loosen, and your TV will fall.
- The Rule: Always drill into the center of the solid brick or the concrete block.
3. Anchor Mechanics: Expansion Bolts You cannot use the lag bolts from the wood kit here. You need “Sleeve Anchors” (Dynabolts/Rawlbolts) or heavy-duty Concrete Screws (Tapcons).
- How they work: An expansion anchor has a cone-shaped nut at the end. As you tighten the bolt head on the outside, it pulls that cone up into the metal sleeve. The sleeve flares out like a flower opening, wedging itself against the rough internal walls of the brick hole with thousands of pounds of pressure. It is a friction fit that gets tighter the more you pull on it.
Scenario C: Vinyl Siding (The “Crush” Warning)
If your house has vinyl siding, there is a hollow gap between the plastic siding and the wood sheathing/stud behind it.
- The Danger: If you bolt the enclosure directly over the siding, tightening the bolts will crush and crack the vinyl plastic, destroying your home’s weatherproofing.
- The Fix: You cannot rely on the siding for support. You need to insert solid “spacers” (metal or PVC tubes) through the siding, resting on the wood behind it. The bolt passes through the spacer. When you tighten it, the enclosure clamps against the spacer, not the plastic.
Drill Bit & Anchor Guide by Wall Type
| Wall Material | Recommended Drill Bit | Recommended Anchor Type | Key Safety Tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wood Studs | Standard Twist Bit (Wood/Metal) | Lag Bolts (Included) | Pre-drill to prevent splitting. |
| Solid Brick | Carbide Masonry Bit | Sleeve Anchors / Rawlbolts | Drill into brick, NOT mortar. |
| Concrete Block | Carbide Masonry Bit | Toggle Bolts or Sleeve Anchors | Use Toggles if the block is hollow. |
| Vinyl Siding | Standard Twist Bit | Lag Bolts with Spacers | Do not crush the siding panels. |
The Great Debate: Do You Need an Enclosure for a Covered Patio?
This is the most common objection I hear: “But foreman, I have a roof! My patio is deep. The rain never hits the back wall. Can’t I just buy a regular TV?”
This is the “Dry Rot Logic.” Just because you are dry doesn’t mean you are safe.
The Truth About “Invisible Water”
- Humidity: Even under a roof, humidity levels reach 100%. Morning dew doesn’t fall from the sky; it forms on surfaces. When a regular TV cools down at night, moisture condenses on the internal circuit boards. This leads to “dendrite growth”—microscopic corrosion bridges that short out chips.
- Pollen & Dust: In spring, look at your patio furniture. It is coated in a fine layer of yellow pollen. If that pollen is on your table, it is also inside your TV’s ventilation slots. Pollen is sticky and insulates heat, cooking your TV from the inside.
- The Bug Factor: Electronics generate a faint hum and warmth. Wasps, spiders, and ants love this. I have opened up “covered patio” TVs to find ant colonies living on the power supply unit.
The Verdict: A roof protects against rain. An enclosure protects against atmosphere. If the air touches your TV, you need an enclosure.
V. The Step-by-Step Installation Guide
Ready to work? Let’s do this properly. Installing an Outvion enclosure is 90% preparation and 10% execution. Don’t rush.
Step 1: Frame First, TV Later (The Template Method)
Unlike installing a dedicated outdoor TV which requires you to lift an 80lb (36kg) slab of glass while trying to line up screw holes, the Outvion system allows you to mount the empty shell first.
1. The Cardboard Template Trick Instead of holding the heavy steel backplane up to the wall to mark your holes (which is tiring and leads to sloppy marks), use the cardboard box the unit came in.
- Cut a piece of cardboard to the exact size of the backplane.
- Punch holes in the cardboard where the mounting slots are.
- Tape this lightweight cardboard to the wall. Step back. Check the height. Adjust it until you are happy.
- Drill your pilot holes through the cardboard. This guarantees perfect alignment.
2. The Bubble Level & Tolerance Use a 24-inch (60cm) level or longer.
- Why length matters: A small “torpedo” level isn’t accurate enough for a wide object. If your mount is off-level by just 1 degree, by the time you extend that angle to the corner of a 65-inch TV, the screen will look 2 inches lower on one side. It will drive you crazy every time you look at it.
- The Tightening Sequence: When tightening your 4 main lag bolts, do not tighten one fully before moving to the next. Tighten them in an “X” pattern (Top Left, Bottom Right, Top Right, Bottom Left). Go to 50% tightness on all, check for level again, then crank them to 100%. This ensures equal torque distribution.
Step 2: The VESA Connection (Handling the Hardware)
Now, move to your indoor TV (laying face down on a soft blanket or a sofa). You are attaching the two vertical steel arms.
1. The Mystery of the “Bump” (VESA Spacers) Many modern TVs (especially Samsungs and Sonys) have a curved back or a “bump” at the bottom where the speakers and motherboard live. If you lay the flat mounting arm against the back, it won’t sit flush.
- The Fix: Your hardware kit includes black plastic cylinders called “Spacers.” Place these over the VESA holes to bridge the gap. They provide a flat surface for the mounting arm to rest on.
2. The “Puncture” Danger (CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING) This is the most common way people destroy their TVs.
- The Scenario: You use a spacer, so you grab a longer screw. But you grab one that is too long. You drive it in with a drill.
- The Result: The screw goes through the threads, punches through the plastic chassis, and cracks the LCD panel or crushes the motherboard. Game over.
- The Foreman’s Rule: Never use a power drill to tighten VESA screws. Use a hand screwdriver. If you feel resistance before the screw head is flush, STOP. You are bottoming out. Back it out and use a washer or a shorter screw.
Step 3: The “Hook & Lock” (The Lift)
The backplane is on the wall. The arms are on the TV. Now we marry them.
1. The Lifting Technique Even though indoor TVs are lighter, a 65-inch screen is awkward. It acts like a sail in the wind.
- Grip: Do not pinch the screen. Place one hand underneath the bottom bezel and one hand on the side.
- The Approach: Tilt the top of the TV toward the wall slightly. Hook the “claws” of the vertical arms over the horizontal rail inside the enclosure.
- The “Seating” Wiggle: Once you feel the weight transfer to the rail, give the TV a gentle side-to-side wiggle. This ensures both arms are fully seated on the rail track and not caught on a lip.
2. The Security Click Most mounting arms have a spring-loaded locking tab or a long security screw at the bottom.
- Lock it down: You must engage this lock. In high-wind areas, wind can get behind the TV and create lift. The lock prevents the TV from jumping off the rail during a storm (or if a guest bumps it).
Step 4: Cable Management (Hiding the Mess)
A sloppy cable job invites water. This is where you seal the fortress.
1. The Physics of the “Drip Loop” Water travels. It adheres to the plastic insulation of power cords due to surface tension. If your cable runs from a high point on the wall straight down into the enclosure, rainwater will ride that cable like a slide directly into your electronics.
- The Defense: You must create a “Drip Loop.” Allow the cable to hang down in a “U” shape below the enclosure entry point, then curve back up to enter the box.
- The Result: Water runs down the cable, hits the bottom of the “U”, and gravity pulls it off onto the patio floor. It cannot climb back up the other side of the “U” to enter the box.
2. The Compression Seal Outvion enclosures use a memory-foam block at the entry point.
- Technique: Don’t just jam the cables in. Lay them flat side-by-side. Close the cover plate tightly.
- Visual Check: Look at the foam. It should be compressed around the cables. If you see daylight through the cable entry, you will see spiders in there next week. Use the provided velcro ties to bundle the excess cable length neatly inside the box—do not let loose wires touch the cooling fans, or you will hear a terrible “zzzzzt” noise when the fans spin up.
Conclusion: The “Finished” Look
When you step back, you won’t see a hacked-together DIY project. You won’t see a wooden box warping in the humidity. You will see a sleek, black, powder-coated fixture that looks like it belongs in a high-end sports bar.
The Outvion system bridges the gap between “Cheap DIY” and “Expensive Commercial.” You get the protection of an industrial asset with the picture quality of your favorite 4K indoor TV.
Don’t let the fear of a drill bit stop you from enjoying movie night under the stars. Measure twice, drill once, and trust the hardware.
FAQ
1. Can I mount this enclosure on a siding wall without studs?
No. Absolutely not. The enclosure plus the TV can weigh 50-80 lbs (22-36 kg). Vinyl, aluminum, or fiber-cement siding has zero structural strength to hold a screw. You must anchor into the wood stud behind the siding or into the solid masonry. Using drywall anchors or siding screws will result in the unit ripping off the wall.
2. How do I reduce glare without the expensive anti-glare upgrade?
Three methods:
- Tilt: Use the internal mount to angle the screen 5-10 degrees down.
- Settings: Go into your TV’s picture settings and switch to “Vivid” or “Dynamic” mode. Turn “Backlight” to 100%. Disable “Eco Mode” (which dims the screen).
- Placement: Mount the unit in a darker corner or install a simple awning/umbrella above it to block direct overhead rays.
3. Do I need a professional installer?
For the physical mounting? No. If you are comfortable using a drill and a level, this is a very standard DIY task. However, for the power, we recommend hiring a certified electrician if you need to install a new outdoor outlet. Never run an orange extension cord across the lawn permanently—that is a fire hazard.
4. What prevents water from running down the cables into the box?
Two defenses work together here. First, the Compression Foam Seal at the cable entry point squeezes tight around the wire, stopping splashing water. Second, you must employ a “Drip Loop.” By leaving a U-shaped slack in the cable below the entry point, gravity forces rainwater to drip off the bottom of the loop rather than traveling up and into the enclosure.
5. My TV has a bump on the back (speaker/subwoofer), will it fit?
Yes. The Outvion enclosure is designed with extra depth (z-depth) to accommodate the varying shapes of modern TVs. The internal VESA mount is adjustable and includes “spacers” (plastic cylinders). If your TV has a lower bump, you use the spacers to push the mounting arms out, ensuring the TV hangs flush and straight without the bump hitting the back wall of the enclosure.
6. Can I mount this on a ceiling pole?
Yes. While the standard kit is for wall mounting, the backplane of the Outvion enclosure features a standardized VESA pattern (usually 600×400 or similar) on the outside rear as well. This means you can attach the entire enclosure to any standard, heavy-duty VESA ceiling pole mount (purchased separately). This is popular for bars with high ceilings or gazebos where wall space is limited.
Recommended Technical Reading
- VESA Mounting Standards:VESA.org – Standards Summary
- Understand the global standard for mounting patterns (100×100, 400×400).
- Guide to Masonry Anchors:Concrete Fasteners – Technical Guide
- Deep dive into shear strength and pull-out strength for different bolt types.
- NEC (National Electrical Code) Article 406:NFPA.org
- Regulations regarding “Weather-Resistant” (WR) receptacles and “In-Use” covers for outdoor power outlets.
- The Physics of Anti-Reflective Coatings:Photonics Media
- Educational resources on how matte diffusion and AR coatings manipulate light.
